Montaña Roja Walk in Playa Blanca

Montaña Roja, or the Red Mountain as we call it here, is the rust-coloured volcanic cone that stands proudly at the western edge of Playa Blanca. It is the landmark that most of us use to get our bearings, and it is hard to miss. Climbing to the top, which sits at 194 metres above sea level, is one of those little Lanzarote adventures that rewards you with sweeping views in every direction. From the summit, you can see the Papagayo beaches to the east, the mountains of Fuerteventura across the water, and the whole south-west corner of the island spread out below. There are two main paths up, both easy to follow and suitable for most people with a reasonable level of fitness. The walk itself is not long, less than two hours, even if you take your time to soak up the scenery and best of all, it does not cost a thing.

Whether you are a keen walker looking to stretch your legs before breakfast, or just fancy something a little more adventurous than a stroll along the promenade, Montaña Roja is always a good choice. The views are so striking that you will probably find yourself stopping every few minutes to take a photo or simply to enjoy the moment.

There are a couple of well-trodden paths leading up Montaña Roja, one from the north and another from the east. We usually find the northern route a little gentler underfoot, while the eastern path offers a slightly steeper climb in places.

Allow around 30 to 40 minutes for the climb if you take it at a relaxed pace, which we always recommend. The path winds steadily upwards through a landscape of volcanic stones, scattered scrub and the odd tough little plant making the most of Lanzarote’s mineral-rich soil. The gradient is manageable, with no tricky sections, but do watch your step as the surface can be loose and gravelly in places. We always suggest wearing shoes with a good grip. Walking boots or sturdy trainers work well. It’s best to leave the flip flops and sandals for the beach.

As you make your way up, the views start to unfold behind you. Playa Blanca stretches out below, its white buildings standing out against the dark volcanic coastline. Soon you’ll spot the Marina Rubicon, and then the Papagayo headland to the east, with the whole sweep of the south coast gradually coming into view. The path gently curves around the mountain, offering a new perspective at every turn, and the higher you go, the more breathtaking the panorama becomes. The last stretch to the summit is a short, slightly steeper walk up to the crater rim, where you’re rewarded with a full 360-degree view that always reminds us why this climb is so special.

Standing on the rim of Montaña Roja’s crater, you are treated to some of the most breathtaking views on the island. Looking south, Fuerteventura feels almost within reach, its sand dunes and coastal villages clearly visible across the narrow stretch of water. On a sunny day, the strait sparkles, and you can often spot the Fred Olsen Express catamaran making its way between Playa Blanca and Corralejo.

To the east, the Papagayo coastline unfolds below the Los Ajaches cliffs, its coves forming gentle arcs of pale sand against the dark volcanic rock. When the air is clear, you can easily spot each beach and the inviting turquoise waters that draw so many to Papagayo. Turning north, the heart of Lanzarote stretches out towards the fire mountains of Timanfaya, a landscape of volcanic colours with the odd splash of green where local farmers still tend their fields in sheltered valleys.

Looking west, the Atlantic seems to go on forever. On especially clear days, you might just make out the faint outlines of Gran Canaria and Tenerife on the horizon, and if you are lucky, even catch a glimpse of Mount Teide’s peak in the distance.

The crater is a gentle bowl of red and brown volcanic earth, which is how Montaña Roja earned its name. It is a wonderfully peaceful place, and if you visit early, you might find you have the summit all to yourself. There are no facilities up here, so it is wise to bring some water and perhaps a snack to enjoy as you take in the scenery. Even on warm days, the wind can be lively at the top, so a light jacket is always a good idea.

If you ask me, the best time to set out on this walk is either early in the morning or later in the afternoon, when the heat is gentle and the island’s light is at its most magical. I love heading off just after sunrise, between 7 and 9am, when the air is cool and soft, and the first rays of sun light up Fuerteventura across the water. The volcanic landscape glows quietly, and the mountain is usually all but deserted. There’s a special peace to climbing in the stillness, before the day has properly begun down in the resort below.

Later in the day, from about 4pm onwards, the light turns golden and the red volcanic earth seems to glow even more brightly. It’s a wonderful time for photos, and if you time it right, watching the sun set from the summit is something you won’t forget. Just make sure you know your way down and leave yourself plenty of daylight for the descent.

I’d always suggest giving the middle of the day a miss, especially in summer, as there’s no shade at all on the mountain and the sun can be relentless. Even in winter, the midday heat can catch you out. No matter when you go, take more water than you think you’ll need, pop on a hat, and don’t forget the sunscreen before you set off.

The walk isn’t particularly tough, but Lanzarote’s volcanic ground has a way of keeping you on your toes. I always recommend sturdy trainers with a decent grip, or even better, walking boots, especially for the descent where the loose gravel can be a bit sneaky. Flip flops, sandals and smooth-soled trainers are best left behind for this one, as the rocky paths here can be quite unforgiving. A slip on these stones is not something you’ll forget in a hurry.

Light, breathable clothing is the way to go, and sun protection is a must. There’s no shade at all up on the mountain, so a hat and sunglasses are essential. I always put on sun cream before setting off and top it up at the summit. Bring at least a litre of water each, and a bit more if you’re walking in the summer heat. It’s also worth packing a light windproof jacket for the top, as the breeze up there can catch you by surprise, even when it’s warm down by the sea.

You won’t want to forget your camera or a phone with a decent camera, as the views from up here are really something to remember. I find a small backpack is perfect for keeping your hands free on the steeper bits, and it’s much easier than trying to juggle bags. If you’re heading out early or planning to catch the evening light, a head torch or your phone’s torch comes in handy for those lower sections where the path can be hard to spot in the half-light.

The way back down follows the same path and usually takes about 20 to 30 minutes. I always recommend taking it slowly here, as the loose, gravelly ground can feel a bit trickier on the descent than on the way up. Small, steady steps and a relaxed pace are the best approach. If you have trekking poles, they can be useful, but most walkers manage perfectly well without.

Once you have finished your walk, the Marina Rubicon is only a short stroll away and is always a favourite spot to unwind. The waterfront cafes and restaurants offer everything from excellent coffee to cold beers, fresh juices and a tempting menu of meals and snacks. There is something special about sitting out on a marina terrace, drink in hand, legs pleasantly tired from your climb, and gazing back up at the mountain you have just conquered. It is a lovely way to end the outing.

If you are in the mood for a longer adventure, the path around the base of Montaña Roja links up with coastal trails heading towards the Papagayo beaches in one direction or along the coast towards the Salinas de Janubio in the other. The area is a haven for birdlife, especially during migration, and it is not unusual to spot hoopoes, kestrels and a variety of waders along the way. The volcanic landscape here is always fascinating, with its ever-changing textures, colours and rock formations revealing the island’s unique story as you walk.

Montaña Roja is always open to anyone who fancies a walk, with no gates, fees or restrictions to worry about. There are no facilities up on the mountain, so it’s best to bring along whatever you might need for the climb. The path is clear and the summit is always in sight, so you can simply follow your nose and enjoy the walk without any fear of losing your way.

If you are staying in the western half of Playa Blanca, you will find Montaña Roja just a pleasant stroll away. From Marina Rubicon, it’s only five or ten minutes on foot to reach the start of the trail, while from the centre of the resort you should allow a relaxed 15 to 20 minutes. For those arriving by car, there is some informal parking near the trailhead, but spaces can fill up quickly, especially on sunny mornings.
Dogs are very welcome here, and you will often see local residents out with their four-legged friends on the lower slopes. The path is a little too rough for pushchairs or wheelchairs, but children from around six or seven upwards usually manage the climb quite happily, especially with a bit of encouragement and plenty of water and sun protection.

Climbing Montaña Roja is something of a morning tradition for many of us who spend time in Playa Blanca. You will often spot familiar faces at the top, sharing a quiet nod and taking in the sweeping views together. It is the sort of walk that quickly becomes a holiday ritual, repeated year after year, because the panorama never loses its magic and the feeling of reaching the summit is always rewarding.